This needs to be heated up to filter it. It takes more work. I always aim for the clear liquid at room temperature oil, it makes collecting and filtering much easier. Most filters have an Absolute or a Nominal Micron rating.
Absolute means absolutely no particles bigger than the stated rating will pass through the filter. Nominal means it only stop some, not all of the particles of the specified size.
So, you can use a 20 micron nominal filter for intitial filtering, but do not rely on it for final filtering. House water filters are only nominal. Suspended water is water molecules trapped in small pieces of solid matter suspended in the oil. Suspended water will settle after it has been filtered down to 10 micron, and applying heat will hasten the settling.
Another way to clean your oil of suspended water is by using a centrifuge. Vegetable oil soaked rags and fabrics may spontaneously combust if left crumpled up long enough.
It is a safe practice to properly discard all soaked rags, towels and filtering fabric as you finish using them finished. Spontaneous combustion is more likely after fabrics have been washed and reacted with laundry detergent chemicals. If your on-board or vehicle filter clogs up quickly, like less than miles, you are not cleaning your oil well enough. It involves heating oil so that any remaining water turns to steam and bubbles. I use an 80' heat wire sold for deicing roofs and gutters wrapped around a 55 gallon steel drum.
I then insulated the drum with heating duct insulation. Without the insulation temps got to F. With insulation they get to F.
I have a drain at the bottom of the barrel that I can drain the water and sludge from I also have a setup with a Thai restaurant where I gave them a steel drum with a bulkhead fitting and tap attached 10 inches above the bottom of the barrel. I check on the oil every couple of weeks and drain whatever I can into cubies. Because the tap is 10 inches off the bottom and I let the oil sit, the settling process starts way before I even touch the oil.
The degree heat is not to "boil" the water, but to cause it to settle out. This is better than boiling it off, because boiling only removes the water, not stuff dissolved in the water. There's lots of information and discussion about this subject on forums such as biodiesel. BB code is On. Smilies are On. Trackbacks are On. Pingbacks are On. Refbacks are On. Forum Rules.
All times are GMT The time now is AM. Add Thread to del. User Name. Remember Me? ShopForum Gallery. Mark Forums Read. Page 1 of 2. Thread Tools. JohnPhazer Registered User. Join Date: Jul Posts: This is probably the wrong forum There a few folks who are WVO users here, but most are dino or retail bio users. Join Date: Dec Posts: Mojool taxation by inflation. BiodieselTD 3iodieselT.
Quote: Originally Posted by BiodieselTD I wouldn't put any of it in your car unless you dewatered and filtered the veggie oil first. Targa-NF Registered User. Join Date: Jan Posts: Sbean Registered User. Digg del. Originally Posted by 98troopy. Overall shot showing Fan on top, pump and drain valve layout. Oil enters through pipe in the side of the tank and sits below top edge so as drips from the lid always go back inside tank.
End fitting has bee replaced with a tap which can be turned down while pump is running to take oil samples for hot pan testing. Fittings in original Bungs from drum.
This used to be the top of the drum. Tank sits on the stand I made to go inside the drum lip. The drum is not attached to the stand which has come in handy on occasions such as when cleaning.
Pump running. Normally the oil level is much higher in the tank so the oil being pumped aerates what is in the drum a lot better. I just threw 50L in for the sake of the pic to show the force with which the oil is squirted in the tank.
I have been very intrested in your wvo dryer ideas and the photos help heaps. I'm still fine tuning my filter system and was keen to add some sort of dryer and 2 micron final filter. Thanks for the tips, froggo. Re: Up flow WVO settling Yup, really appreciate the detail and the pics - A couple of questions if I may, the sight tube, will this show the crud building up in the base of the first tank and can you simply drain this off or is it too thick? In the first set of photos you have oil going from a white container raw oil to the main tank, how it this transferred?
Cheers, David. Re: Up flow WVO settling In the photo, David is using a small bilge pump to transfer raw wvo into the bottom of his settling tank. Re: Up flow WVO settling The sight tube on the tank does show the crud level but not very accurately. It has only just seemed to move from where it has been for a long time. I notice the level has gone down the last couple of days so maybe it's moving a bit. I think a larger tube would be better but I only really put it there to make use of the holes in the tank that had to be blocked anyway.
The tank has a tap in the very bottom in the domed section and I drain the fats and sediment off from there. Because the tanks is domed rather than coned, I try to drain the crud slowly but it seems to quickly go to pretty clear oil. I think this is because the draining is sucking a hole in the crap layer and then drawing down clear oil.
Either that or there is a lot less muck in there than what I think! Before I start the pump I open the valve and let the oil drain down to push out any air that the pump would push in and disturb the tank contents. I don't see any rubbish coming out even though the site gauge would indicate a higher level which is why I think it is blocked.
It does indicate a pretty low crap level in the tank though. I keep a drum under the drain and open it every day when I walk past to try to keep the rubbish at a minimum.
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