While the lanolin naturally found in wool gives it a good degree of water resistance, much of that resistance is lost through the process of weaving the fibers into cloth. Exposure to water—particularly repeated or prolonged exposure—will warp the fibers, causing them to expand, swell, and sag.
As your suit dries, the fibers will be further displaced, and your once-immaculate suit will look frayed, saggy, and misshapen. However, high-end suits geared toward frequent travelers are often designed to withstand rain as well as wrinkles and heavy wear and tear. If you live in an area where rain is inescapable, investing in one of these suits might be a good option. Custom suiting and menswear. Possibilities include Merino wool carefully treated so the fibers retain more of their protective lanolin, or wool or linen blended with a small amount of a synthetic material to increase the durability while still retaining the luxurious look and drape of the original fabric.
Well-chosen outerwear and accessories can protect you from a downpour while still allowing you to look bold and stylish. Umbrellas are truly underrated accessories, especially when it comes to staying dry while still showing off your suit.
Umbrellas come in such a wide variety of shapes, styles, and sizes that you can surely find one that fits your personal aesthetic. Pick a good-quality umbrella with a roomy waterproof canopy and a durable frame.
A traditional full-size umbrella, particularly one with a hand-carved wooden handle, will lend any outfit an added layer of class, though collapsible ones are more readily portable in a briefcase, messenger bag, or backpack.
But what I can say for sure is that I've worn wool in a lot of conditions, some of them quite strange, and been very impressed with the results. I had an old wool jacket that was scratchy and not comfortable, but it was my football jacket and it always impressed me how that jacket worked better and better through the course of a cold, wet, muddy football afternoon.
This is me, dressed in wool The Atlantic Ocean surf was surging up to my thighs, and splashing above my waist, so chest waders would have been the normal choice, but they can be extremely dangerous But exactly how does wool handle water so well?
Here is what I've been able to pick up from the sources. The structure of wool is very complex, and different parts of the wool fiber have different properties, as shown in the following diagram:.
The diagram above has been reproduced in slightly different form by a lot of people and I don't know who to credit for it. If anyone has info, please let us know! Near as I can tell, it's a modification of a diagram from Australia's Commonwealth Scientific and Industrial Research Organisation , and as a government-sponsored agency I believe it's OK to use their material. Below is another version of the same diagram. The parts of the fiber are easier to see, and there is a sizing ruler added.
The outermost layer of the wool fiber, the epicuticle, repels water. The lanolin in wool also helps repel water. So when you are out in the rain, even extended rain, or immersed in a river or the surf for a shorter time, the wool gets wet on the surface, like human hair would, but does not soak up any water.
This behavior is completely different than typical cotton, which immediately fills up with all the water it can hold. From talking with probably thousands of people, I've learned that most people think without actually thinking about it that wool behaves like cotton, and have a very hard time accepting the tremendous differences between wool and other garment fabrics, such as cotton and synthetics.
Here is a very important way where wool's complex structure comes into play The surface of the epicuticle is scaly, and water molecules, particularly in the form of vapor, can slip through the spaces between the scales.
Once inside the fiber, water molecules adsorb -- form hydrogen bonds -- to amino acids at the surface of internal structures within the fiber. Creating hydrogen bonds actually releases small amounts of heat called the heat of sorption!
Also, and more importantly, the water vapor can condense inside the fiber. Water releases a lot of heat when it condenses from vapor into liquid. This is a pretty big deal for someone stuck outdoors in a humid cold. I think this behavior explains why wool is so popular on America's Gulf Coast I was in Mississippi once another story I guess for a crazy snowstorm that shut down air travel from the Gulf Coast all the way up the Atlantic Seaboard.
We got a few inches of wet, heavy snow. The temp was right around the freezing point, but it seemed MUCH colder because the humidity was so high The joke was that I'd expected shirt-sleeve weather.
It was the coldest not-truly-cold weather I've ever experienced. A kilogram of dry wool placed in an atmosphere of air saturated with moisture releases about the same amount of heat as that given off by an electric blanket running for eight hours.
Everyone has seen how water tends to stick together Wool takes advantage of this tendency by shedding liquid water at the epicuticle, but admitting water vapor between the scales of the epicuticle.
During a rainy hike, a wool garment will shed the rain liquid water , but adsorb internally the water vapor generated by the body in response to the effort of hiking. Many times I've hiked in warm, heavy rain, wearing on my torso only a ShirtJac, and been amazed and delighted that I didn't get wet with sweat or rain. This complex behavior is not useful only in rain. Wool clothing creates a great microclimate within which a human can be remarkably comfortable.
On a wet day, after the rain, or just during high humidity, wool will adsorb humidity from the air, preventing it from reaching you, and keeping a relatively dry microclimate around you. And it works the other way, too A heavy wool coat is effectively waterproof. Don't go swimming in it, but even in heavy rain it won't transmit water to the inside if the wool is thick. Even as it gets wet, it will stay warm — one of the key advantages of wool as a fiber. Most wool coats should be dry cleaned.
For those that can be hand washed, use only cold water and a mild detergent made for wool. Soak the coat in the water for five to ten minutes.
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